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At one time, wrought iron was an iron with no carbon in it. What we use and what is now commonly referred to as wrought iron is actually mild steel. Mild steel is iron with a small amount of carbon added for extra strength. What's the difference between wrought
iron & cast iron? Does wrought iron rust? It is recommended that all metal work for exterior applications should be hot dip galvanized. Should we use powder coat to prevent
the rusting? Where can I get a piece galvanized?
How long will my wrought iron piece
last? Why is wrought iron so expensive? What should I look for in good wrought
iron? / What determines the quality of forged metal work? a) Surface texture. Is the metal hand hammered or machine rolled? Does it have texture? Is it rusted and pitted? Quality hand forged work has neat, flat hammer marks, not random dents from the edge of the hammer. The corners will not be sharp. Higher quality work will have fewer noticeable hammer marks. b) Variations in dimension in each piece. As you trace each element through the better works, they may vary from thick to thin. One piece may go from 1" square at one end to 1/2" x 2" in the middle to 1/8" x1/8" at the other end. This can only be achieved by heating and hammering the piece at high temperatures. Heavier elements, 3/4" and heavier, have more labor involved than 1/4" dimension work which sometimes does not even involve heating the metal. c) The graphic design of the assembly. Is it a unique design or is it a repetitive collection of "C" or "S" scrolls, does it look logical or does it look accidental, like someone welded together things that they found in the yard? It should look like a complete work, not something broken off from a larger piece. d) The connections in the assembly. Are they graceful? Are they well-formed rivets or collar wraps or are the pieces just welded together with the welding blobs visible? Good assemblies should have clean logical connections. Traditionally, there was no arc welding and all connections were mechanical: rivets, machine screws, hot collar wraps. When welding is used, all welds should be counter sunk and ground clean and perhaps hidden under a wrap. e) Finish. Is the piece clean of paint and rust so you can see the original finish? Or is it caked with many layers of paint and galvanized? Some old ironwork is literally being held together by the paint layers and when sandblasted, will fall apart and be more trouble than they are worth. f) Tube steel or solid? Tube steel is much thinner metal and will actually start to rust from the inside out even if painted regularly. It is much lighter than solid steel but can not be forged or shaped like solid wrought metal. It is also usually not very old. g) Repairs or modification. Look for different textures or dissimilar elements in the same assembly along with welding combined with mechanical connections. This indicates modern repair or modifications to an original piece, lowering its value. h) Damage. Has the piece been dropped or run over? Has it been in a fire? Is it warped or racked and will it need repair before it can be placed in a new setting? Only someone who is capable of making the piece in the first place is qualified in assessing the damage and what it would cost to repair a wrought iron piece. How long will it take to finish a
piece once it is ordered? When can you get started? How can we best work with you? What are your prices? Will it increase the value of my
property? Why is installation so expensive? How can I tell if Jefferson Mack
Metal is right for my project?
PRODUCT QUESTIONS Can I order a table just like your
end table only a little larger? Can I put fruit or other edible items
in your bowls and plates? How were these designs inspired?
Copyright © 1999 - 2006 Jefferson Mack Metal, Inc. San Francisco, CA 415.550.9328 fax.415.285.3365 |
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